Step 1: Using a marker, divide the 20-gauge sheet into 6 equal sections. Using the 7/8" x 5/8" oval die, punch an oval from the center of each section. Then, using the 15/16" x 3/4" oval die (one size larger than you used previously and the corresponding center-positioning die, punch an oval washer from the center of each section. Using the 1-7/16" x 7/8" oval die (one size larger again), punch out a second oval washer from each of the 6 sections. You now have 6 large oval washers, 6 smaller oval washers, 6 small solid ovals.
Step 2: Using 400-grit sandpaper, smooth the edges of the washers and the solid ovals. Set your annealing pan on a stable surface with the soldering board on top of it. Arrange your larger oval washers and the solid ovals on the soldering board. Make sure all are clean and smooth. Flux the back sides of each of the oval washers and each of the solid ovals; leave them on the soldering board, flux side up.
Step 3: Using medium solder, set 7 or 8 solder chips on each of the washers and solid ovals. Light your torch, and play it across the ovals, melting the solder. The solder will spread out across the surface of each oval and re-solidify.
Step 4: Straighten your half-round wire and cut two 6" lengths. Set them on your soldering board and flux them. You will need to ‘pick-solder’ the wire. To do this, play the flame across each wire. Then lightly melt each chip until it balls up and use your pick to position each chip on the warmed wire. The solder will stick to the warm wire. When all the chips are in place, working a few inches at a time, thoroughly heat the wire until the solder flows along the flat surface.
Step 5: Flux the top side of the solid 24-gauge sheet and place the sheet on your soldering board, flux side up. This is the bracelet form. Arrange the large oval washers down the center of the sheet, solder-side down, evenly spaced, with the long axis of the oval perpendicular to the long edge of the sheet. Ovals should start about 1/2" away from each end of the bracelet form.
Step 6: Arrange one of the small solid ovals in the center of each larger washer. Place a 6" wire along each of the longer sides of the bracelet form, solder-side down. Light your torch and heat all surfaces until the solder flows. Note: Watch for a shiny line to appear where the metal pieces touch one another. Use your soldering pick to gently press each metal piece against the bracelet form; it is crucial that all surfaces are fully soldered. After soldering, immerse the bracelet form in pickle.
Step 7: While the bracelet pickles, cut one of the six smaller oval washers in half along its shorter axis. Using a flat file, smooth the ends of the washer sections, then sand them using 400-grit sandpaper. Set the remaining five smaller ovals and the two half-washers on your soldering board. Make sure all are clean and smooth.
Step 8: Remove the bracelet form from the pickle pot, rinse it with water and dry it. Using a 36-grit brown bristle disc, clean the upper surface of the bracelet form. Set the bracelet form on your soldering board, decorative side up, and flux the surface. Straighten the remaining wire. Measure the distance between the half-round wires at each end of the bracelet form. Cut a length of wire to exactly fit each distance, filing the ends to achieve an exact fit. Mark each wire to help ensure it gets placed at the end it was fitted to. Set the bracelet form aside.
Step 9: Flux the back sides of the washers and the wire. Leave them, flux side up, on the soldering board. Using easy solder, set 7 or 8 chips around each of the washers and space chips every 1/2" to 1" along the length of each wire. Use the pick-solder technique on the wire. Light your torch, and play it across the washers, melting the solder.
Step 10: Set the bracelet form on the soldering board and place each piece of wire across the end of the bracelet form that it was fitted to. Set one half-washer at each end with the cut ends against the wire; centering each washer along the wire, allowing it to overlap the oval already soldered in place.
Step 11: Arrange the five oval washers along the center of the bracelet form, solder-side down, between the wires; arrange each washer so that it overlaps two of the ovals already soldered in place. Light your torch and play the flame over the bracelet form, heating the metal until the solder flows. As before, watch for a shiny line to appear where the metal pieces touch one another, using your pick to press downward on the wire and washers as you work to ensure complete contact between the surfaces. When all surfaces are soldered, immerse the bracelet form again in the pickle pot.
Step 12: After pickling, remove the bracelet form from the pickle pot, rinse it with water and dry it. Using a brown bristle disc, clean the upper surface of the bracelet form. Set it on the soldering board and, using a coarse Cratex wheel, grind all edges around the bracelet form to remove any excess solder, to make all edges smooth and even, and to round off the corners. Clean and polish the entire bracelet form. Allow a good couple of hours for this step prior to shaping and finishing the bracelet. Start with a 3" yellow (80-grit) bristle disc to remove firescale and further smooth and tidy the edges. Work gradually down through the finer grits such as the red (220-grit) and blue (400-grit) bristle discs to remove marks left by each previous, coarser grit and to further refine the surface finish.
Step 13: Using a rawhide mallet and a cast iron stepped bracelet mandrel, shape the bracelet form into a cuff. Work slowly around the entire form, using pliers with lined jaws as needed to achieve the curvature you want. Use care to avoid striking the bracelet where there are voids beneath the washers as this can damage the bracelet. Note: Lined jaws (or covered tips) will help protect the metal finish. When you have the desired shape, clean and polish the inside surface with steel wool.
Step 14: Oxidize the bracelet form in liver of sulfer for 5 minutes. Rinse in water and dry thoroughly. Using a satin buff (or super-fine steel wool), remove oxidation from the raised surfaces of the bracelet form.
Step 15: If you prefer an even higher polish, use a 1-micron bristle disc to create a higher shine on the outer surfaces, increasing the contrast with the oxidized areas.
